Showing posts with label Borneo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Borneo. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

The Hidden Treasures of Muck Diving

Captured here by the camera of Lisa and Cian O'Fearghail are the tiny creatures that have created a new love of diving in me, totally different from the excitement of seeing sharks, turtles, or barracuda under the water. These are parts of the micro-life of muck diving, tiny inhabitants of corals, anemones, sea fans, sandy bottoms, and other remote habitats on the reef. They are more difficult to find than the large sharks that swim in depths and thus, despite their size, create a big excitement in divers that enjoy looking for them.

Savvy and local divers like to joke that diving on Sipadan is like watching TV. It's hardly a task to find the sharks and turtles and other large life that swim frequently in its waters. These sea slugs, called nudibranchs, aren't so obvious. These picture here are hardly more than an inch long and although they are brightly colored, they are easily over-looked swimming through a lively coral reef. It takes a keen, experienced (or just lucky) eye to find them. When I first was diving on sites such as Bohayan and Sibuan, DMs and other divers would point these out to me I would look around, all over the reef having no idea what I was even looking for.

Lisa and Cian work as Dive Master and manager of Blue View Divers, a dive shop on Koh Phi Phi in Thailand. I was lucky enough to spend my first several dives with them and they helped me look, feel, and act like I knew what I was doing amidst a large group of other divers who already knew very well what nudibranchs are. Thanks to their knowledge, kind helpfulness, and the beautiful pictures they took underwater, I can share these with you.

The micro life isn't exclusively nudibranchs. There is a multitude of other tiny, rare animals that live on the reef. Tiny shrimps often play symbiotic roles of cleaning, tiny crabs scutter about the reef too small to look appetizing, and juvenile fish flutter about swimming foolishly with their minuscule fins (a personal being a juvenile harlequin sweetlips, which might be the most clumsy and frantic of all swimmers in the ocean).

Pictured here is probably the most popular of the micro-life of diving in Semporna: pygmy seahorses. These little things are smaller than your pinky fingernail and they hang about on large sea fans on the reef. They can be terribly difficult to see, let alone photograph, so again I'm amazed Lisa could capture such a fantastic photograph of this one perched on the fan. Pygmy seahorses take care and patience to see. Often there's is a current in the water and to an inexperienced diver, looking extremely close to a large sea fan when there's a strong current could lead to a horrible collision. Also, diving with a number of other people, it's impossible for everyone to take a peek at the same time. Everyone must take turns shoving their mask up close to the seahorses in order to witness them.

Perhaps it's difficult to imagine enjoying watching a tiny, translucent shrimp running on a anenome more than seeing a shark scan the reef for dinner, but more than looking for the big things in the ocean, it is in the search for the smaller creatures that there are always discoveries to be made. These microscopic animals are vital to the reef's function as an ecosystem and watching them live in a tiny spot on a coral reef shows the entire system for what it is, an enormous inter-connected city of complex functions beyond our imagination.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Room For Improvement: A First Attempt at Underwater Photography, Sipadan

The visibility at Sipidan is often 30 meters plus, not that you can tell from my photos. These pictures are the results of my first go at underwater photography, a humbling, frustrating experience to say the least. Some of the things I learned from my rookie day:Fish are not photogenic. By the time you take out your camera and try to take a shot, the fish are swimming away and all you capture is a thin profile of their fin. When you can get a good side view, good luck asking the fish to stay still so you can capture a photo that is not blurred.The lighting is entirely different than taking photos on land. I don't even pretend to understand how to compensate yet. In my meager defense, I thought the camera I rented was a real piece of crap, but if I had had a top of the line camera I probably would have been even more frustrated since I wouldn't have an excuse for my poor pictures. Photography can potentially ruin diving. While an enormous school of barracuda was circling around the reef, I was trying to figure out the proper settings on the camera instead of enjoying witnessing it. It is very difficult to take a photo that really captures the experience of diving. Here I tried to snap a shot showing the abundance of fish at the drop off, hoping to catch the smaller, more colorful fish in the corals and the huge school of jack fish behind them. The outlines are there, but the colors, the life, the excitement of the reef is absent. Okay, I'm going to say this, then I'll stop complaining and whining about my photos. Above is a picture I took at Sipadan. Below is a picture someone else took at Sipadan. I just don't understand yet. I'm sure that one's doctored, but the diffence is vast. Still, I'm not giving up. Just need to get more diving in somehow.

A school of jack fish circles at the top of the drop off outside Turtle Tomb. I dove this same spot 3 times in my stay in Semporna and they were always there, swimming together. Some of the bigger fish in the middle of the school were nearly 2 meters long.A close-up of the jackfish. I doctored these shots a little trying to compensate for the off colors and lighting. Still looking up how to do that as well. What's Turtle Tomb? This is. Underneath Sipadan is a complex network of caves that are extremely dangerous to dive. It's possible, but very expensive. We swam into the cave 10 meters or so, just for effect. The name comes from the bones of ancient sea turtles found in the caves. Why they're there is a mystery but the two main theories are A. the turtles go there to die B. the turtles swim in, get lost and never find their way out. Here a parrot(?)fish sits on the sandy bottom of the entrance to the Turtle Tomb. So, I guess not all fish are scared of cameras.There really were turtles every where. These pictures are all of different turtles on different parts of the dives. There were so many per dive nobody pointed them out to each other. I couldn't keep track of how many we saw, but if I had to guess, I would say that on some of the dives we saw as many as 35 seperate turtles. Also, it's very faint, but there's a white tip shark blurred into the background of the top-left of the photo. At certain points in the dives the best I could do was count how many seperate turtles were visible at that very moment. The most I counted was 7 turtles around me, some swimming in the deep, some floating around the wall, and others resting amongst the coral on the reef. The reef sharks were just as numerous as the turtles. None of us even pointed them out. The DM started out the dives clanging on his tank to point out the first of the dive, but soon gave up as he didn't want to be playing his tank like an instrument throughout the dive. Probably the worst quality of all the pictures, but I still want to show what I tried to capture here. In the back there are many divers, all looking the same way, gazing at the huge school of barracuda. This school was truly amazing. There could have been as many as 1,000 barracuda all swimming together. If that is an exaggeration, it is only a slight one as there were so many you couldn't keep them all in your field of vision. This was at the, aptly named, Barracuda Point, the most famous dive site on Sipadan. I had been on this same site two times already and understood the lays of the reef and the currents. All the other divers were following the school around, fighting the current, increasing the heart rate, and sucking down air. I stayed put in one place, relaxing, breathing comfortably, just waiting for the fish to inevitably turn and circle closer to me. At that point, two white tip sharks cruised over, went right past me and headed for these divers. I tried my best to get a shot of the two sharks heading for the unsuspecting divers, but this was all that turned out. On any other dive site, people would have been excited to see a single shark all day. Here we were at Barracuda Point, and there were so many sharks, and so many other fish to look at in such huge quantity, that these sharks cruised right behind these people without notice.

Why is diving on Sipadan so great?

Before I post all my pictures of it, I'll explain why. Recently Sipadan has been protected, the resorts were all kicked off the island and a permit is now needed to come within a mile of it. Only a hundred permits are issued per day which means getting there can be difficult and requires reservations well in advance. (I was lucky and spent 3 days, 9 dives at Sipadan.) But there are nearly 25 islands off the coast of Semporna, including the famous muck-diving spot of Mabul; what's the big deal about Sipadan?

Aside from Sipadan's magnificent corals, what it's really known for is the big stuff. Hawksbill and green sea turtles are swim in such great number it's not worth trying to count how many you see per dive. White-tip and grey reef sharks are also every present. Huge schools of jackfish and barracuda swim and circle around certain spots. Then there's always the potential for seeing manta rays, whale sharks, or what everyone would really, really love to see: a school of hammerheads.

























On this map is labeled the town of Semporna and the most famous of the numerous islands around it. What this map shows is that Mabul, Kapalai, and Mataking all sit in the "shallow" water, where as Sipadan sits alone (southern-most island on the map), out in the depths. This means that off of its reefs the drop off is drastic, and much, much deeper than that of any other island in the area. In these depths are where the big sea creatures lurk and every so often they will swim along the tall sea walls of Sipadan. The lucky divers are 30 meters deep, off from the wall, and looking out into the blue when these huge rays and sharks happen to cruise near the reef.

This is no short drop off either. This chart shows how Sipadan juts out from the bottom of the ocean, nearly a thousand meters straight up. Mabul by contrast sits in extremely shallow water. Sipadan is a topographicall freak of nature and as such is on every list of the Top 10 dive sites of the world.

My Photos of the Island
The main beach at Sipadan. Those with permits to dive the island are only allowed on a couple hundred meters of the beach.
Taken from the bow of the boat, here's Sipadan's drop off at the dive site Coral Gardens. Out in the deep blue, two DMTs do their swim tests, floating in the water for 15 minutes.

Friday, May 11, 2007

From the Muddy Banks of the Kinabatangan

Thanks to the palm oil plantations, the wildlife of Borneo is squeezed to a small area around the Kinabatangan River. While said, this means the high concentration of animals here are great for animal watching of all types. Here are the animals I was able to take decent shots of while living an hour and a half down the river in a camp called, Uncle Tan's.A heavy fog often layed across the river making it more difficult to spot animals of any kind. At least for me. Lan and the other guides have eagle eyes and could still find wildlife hiding in the mist.Here is an example of the boats we cruised down the river in. I initially thought the loud outboard motor and the bright orange life jackets would scare any living thing away before we could get close enough to see it, but for whatever reason, they didn't seem to mind all that much.Kingfishers are only found where there is water and are a favorite among birdwatchers. Thank god we didn't have any of them on the trip though. We were looking for mammals. Still, these brightly colored birds with large bills and a healthy appetite for fish were pretty cool.Hornbills are a very common sight on the river. These birds mate for life and are usually seen in couples. Lan told us you could often see them nuzzling their beaks together (all the girls in the boat say: aww...)The morning can be a great time to spot crocodiles on the river but with them, the boat motor is a deterrant and it's hard to get close without them slipping off the bank and underneath the water. I would put the visibility of the water at about a quarter of a foot. Whatever's down in there, we couldn't see it. So when a croc dissapeared into the water beneath the boat, we all looked around at each other as if to remind ourselves this wasn't some cheesy horror flick where the deadly croc then knocks over the boat and begins to tear people to bits.The middle of the day can be blazing hot on the river, but usually we spent the time shaded under the tall trees of the rain forest. Away from the banks of the river we went looking for different animals down the numerous trails around camp.Without even leaving the camp monitor lizards could be seen walking about or digging in the mud for snacks. They weren't shy but would run if we got too close. Along with these guys, wild pigs and long-tailed macacques frequented our camp ground. The pigs were of no worry, but the long-tailed macacques were cheeky monkeys, always getting into anything their could get their hands on. They stole unwatched toast, drank cans of coke and would taste anything that looked remotely like food.These day hikes were not the time to see big animals. Here is the second smallest frog in the entire world. Well, not literally this very frog, but the species is the second smallest. A fact even more useless and obscure than that: it's called the Least Narrow-mouthed Frog. Huh?Okay, so the day hikes weren't crazy-exciting at all. But they could be informative. Here is one of the coolest trees around. It's a murderous tree that grows off of other trees that have already grown tall. It grows so strangely, all over place, because it must suffocate the roots of the host tree in order to take all the nutrients for itself.Another tree, introduced by Leo The Scorpion Master, this one was of note because of its former use as a perfect tree to make boats. The wood was soft enough for hollowing out to make a canoe and the roots the stand tall from the earth were great for making oars as well. Now this tree is protected from being cut down for any reason.After the day hike, the animal watching got more exciting with an late afternoon boat ride where many animals came out to the water before sun down. Here are some of the cheeky long-tailed macacques with a baby.I couldn't help myself with this picture. I often felt like I was living the Discovery Channel while I was traveling through Borneo, but this moment here really did it for me, when the two macacques had to answer nature's call and make sweet monkey love right in front of a boat full of cameras. In case you're wondering, monkeys do it doggie-style. This could also be a great time to find some crocodiles on the shore, perhaps digesting a big meal. Here, a juvenile makes the scamper for the water after our boat got to near. This big boy was not a small croc. When we first spotted it, it was sitting on the bank with its mouth open. It didn't move for a while until we were only meters away. Then it slowly worked its way towards the water, slipped in and it must have gone right underneath our boat. Everyone kept all hands inside the boat. Next to the Orang Utan, the most famous animal in Borneo is the proboscis monkey. It is only found in Borneo and is known for the males of the species having such a large nose. Lan was bullshitting about them using it as a snorkel to swim, but internet research has informed me that it's unknown why they have such large noses but is guessed it was to do with sexual selection. Beacuse, you know what they say about monkeys with big noses. Anyways, here's a mother -who has a small nose- carrying a baby. Here's a picture of a male and although I couldn't get a close enough shot to really capture the great size and hilarity of his nose, continuing on the Discovery Channel theme, he's also flashing his red monkey-penis for the camera. Eww.. you just looked, didn't you?Night river safaris can be the most fun on the river since there's potential to see all kinds of nocturnal animals they won't come to the river during the day.Unfortunatly for us, we just saw more of these damned macacques. Upon first arrival they're really interesting, but by the time you leave the Kinabatangan, they bore you to tears. This common mangrove snake slept in a tree just above the water, supposedly digesting a meal. Making us all love the macacques all the more, while we were just underneath the snake flashing our lights upwards, it began to rain. Then we realized it wasn't raining. All the monkeys in the tree were pissing down on us. Thanks, guys.Kingfishers are always out on the river, looking to snatch up a fish. Again, I'm not nuts about the birds but this photo turned out pretty good.The most adventerous of our animal watching were the night treks. We all were thick rubber boots to walk through the foot-thick mud in the jungle. Armed with headlamps, we crept into the darkness looking for all the creepy-crawly things you don't want in your bed at night. This was a baby tarantula. I wasn't able to get a shot of the momma tarantula, but it was big, hairy, and gross. These things give me the chills. Seeing one up in the trees ups the intensity of the night trek, always wondering if there's one above you that might decide to drop down on your neck. This centipede isn't much a harm. Upon touching it, it will curl into a spiral in order to protect itself. Still, watching all of it's tiny legs move like a little wave against the ground and imagining it crawling up your leg can give you the creeps. Here, Leo, as he promised he would, found a scorpion. This was an active one and it was crawling all over him. Leo was so happy I thought it was just tickling him. This guy loves scorpions. Perhaps a little too much. He's been stung in the neck before (he's also been bit by a tarantula). Even more than this, what's funny is that he told us his goal is to put a scorpion in his mouth. What? I don't know exactly why, but I guess that's how you get a rush when you live in the jungle. And I can already see the line of questions: What happened to your mouth? I was bit by a scorpion. How did it bite you in the lip? Well, you see, I was trying to put it in my mouth... And here is my favorite photo of all, even though it's very dark and it's difficult to see what's going on. Let me fill you in. We came across this monitor lizard sleeping in a tree. That's not all that strange in itself, but just look at this lizard. He looks passed the f out. All his legs are hanging down from the branch and his head is cocked back, his chin resting on the branch. It looks like he got too drunk at a jungle party and passed out in a horribly uncomfortable position.