The Thai Military Precedes My Arrival With Tanks in the Streets

When I left for Thailand I promised my mother I would use good judgement and keep myself out of unnecesary, dangerous situations. These pictures might seem like evidence to the contrary, but the truth is that the political situation here is calm and, for the most part, business as usual. Tanks are still parked outside strategic political buildings but they are merely a symbolic reminder that the country is amidst a military coup and under martial law. For the most part, daily life in Thailand has remained unchanged. Thais have welcomed the coup and brought flowers for the soldiers before taking pictures in front of the tanks. Most of the Thais I have talked to are very happy about the coup, are glad Thaksin is out of power and remain very optimistic for the future of democracy in their country. If I hadn't known anything was amiss here in Thailand, I wouldn't have guessed anything out of the ordinary was happening. Here and there soldiers stand at busy intersections looking bored in their fatigues. Perhaps the most surreal thing I've seen was three soldiers standing on a streetcorner, AK-47s strapped across their chests, chatting jovially with a cute young girl who sat comfortably in plastic chair beside them. I don't know much about military coups, but when I picture them in my head, this isn't what comes to mind.

Thaksin's cronyism throughout the construction of Bangkok's new airport and his corporate tax laws that made the $1.9 billion sale of his telecom company tax exempt, have made him hated throughout Bangkok. Still, he remains popular in the poorer, rural parts of Thailand where he created cheap health care and generated economic growth. But the situation is more complex than this and some speculate that there remains an old military rivalry secretly fueling the conflict. Thaksin was formerly in a division of the army that was at ends with the society of all the leaders of the coup as well as the King's top advisor. This small rivalry was not the reason for the coup, but it sure doesn't help the situation.

Whether Bangkok seems happy about the coup or not, it's still far too premature to be calling it a success. It's a well-known fact that Thaksin was a corrupt Prime Minister but finding a politician that isn't corrupt is like looking for a pornstar that's a virgin. There still has not been mention of any PM candidates though the generals have promised to hand over power in less than two weeks. They have also promised to amend the constitution to fix whatever ailments they claim plague the current situation, but the specifics of their next move remain to be seen.

One article I read put the situation aptly saying, "Coups, like wars, are easy to begin but hard to finish." Despite the coup's popularity, perhaps the best move for Thailand would have been to wait until the October elections and hope to solve their problems democratically. Thaksin's party, if not Thaksin himself, was likely to be elected, but opting out of the election prematurly surely puts the country's stability at risk. Perhaps The Nation, the main anti-Thaksin newspaper, put it best saying General Sonthi "did the wrong thing for the right reason."

So far, daily life remains unchanged in Thailand and the bloodless coup has been run without error. I feel very safe in the country and admittedly even more so now that I am in Ban Phe, 3 hours southeast of Bangkok. Still, in the 36 hours I spent in the capitol I never once felt unsafe and everything was seemed the same as it was when I was there last only one year ago. It is great to be back in this country and I, too, like every Thai I've met, remain very optimistic for a peaceful, democratic end to the coup.