Democracy now! ...or... snacks now, and maybe democracy later

If I were in any other country, I might be afraid. It has been 10 months since the military overthrew the elected Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra in a bloodless coup but in the last two days large protests have occurred around Bangkok. On Sunday night I walked over to the Sanam Luang, historically the spot for such a political protest in Bangkok. There I met a reported 13,000 other people who came out in protest of the current government and calling for Thaksin’s return. But like I said, in any other country I might be worried, but not here.

First, 13,000 people isn’t even that many in a city of over 11 million and to be honest, I’d be surprised if there were really 10,000. Second, half the people present were only there because they expected large crowds and brought their food carts knowing that Thais can’t resist some dried squid or meat on a stick. A monk sat behind a table selling his own amulets, CDs, and books (that’s ridiculous in itself.) Another man sold tsunami videos. Others actually set up tables and chairs for makeshift noodle soup restaurants. Stranger still, others laid out mats and were doing business giving Thai massages throughout the evening.

With a backdrop of the holy Wat Pra Keow, speakers took turn riling up the crowd chanting back and forth and giving heartfelt speeches. Those in the crowd serious about Thailand returning to democracy wore yellow bandannas around their heads and waved red and white flags demanding the current government to “Get Out!” Politely seated on the ground around the stage, most enjoyed their snacks in between talking points and their flag waving.

When the final speech was over the crowd gave a last hoorah and out came a band (Pua Cheewit or Thai folk music) but most were already on their way out. Without incident, the protests came and went and all that was left was the famous field filled with trash. The place was filthy. It wasn’t dirty as in a couple people didn’t throw away their trash or a couple trashcans got knocked over. It was much worse. Nobody threw anything away. The field was covered in plastic bags, Styrofoam containers, bottles, cans, and ‘disposable’ sitting mats. I walked out with the masses, my empty water bottle in my back pocket, and at the main exit of the field I found a huge line of empty dumpsters to throw it in.

Later that night I laid down to sleep around midnight and another speech started. This time it was at the government building kilometers away, but I could hear the speaker's words loud and clear. It must have been audible over most of Bangkok. The voice yelled over the city and echoed off all the taller buildings. As most Thai people were in bed, pro-democracy rhetoric went on loud and clear over the entire city well into the night.

The protests have increased since though each in smaller size. They all demanded that General Santhi, currently the head of the government, to step down. In response to the people's demands he said, "No."